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Franck Muller presents the all-gem-set Vanguard Revolution 3 Tourbillon

For Cortina's 50th anniversary.

As Cortina Watch celebrates its golden jubilee this year, it's gradually rolling out a series of commemorative editions, including a pair of unique domed clocks from Patek Philippe (unfortunately not for sale) and a special Calatrava ref. 5057G (fortunately).

Now, the Singaporean retailer has lifted the covers of its most luxurious anniversary edition, the 50th Anniversary Edition of the Franck Muller Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton Cortina watch. The anniversary collection consists of five unique editions of the Franck Muller Triple Axis Tourbillon, each set with 28.4 carats of baguette-cut stones. One of the five watches has been completed – the others are still being assembled – and is on display in an exhibition in Singapore, which will run from now until September 13, 2022.

Franck Muller is one of the leading practitioners of luxury jewelery complications, and the Cortina Watch has long been a champion of high jewelery watches, so the Anniversary Vanguard Tourbillon is both. While the large-format bling has niche appeal, the Vanguard Revolution 3 movement is fun in its own right.

In fact, the movement is typical Franck Muller in highlighting the tourbillon. Here, the tourbillon regulator is more of a visual spectacle than a mechanism. Not only is the tourbillon a biaxial spherical tourbillon, it also features a double retrograde minute scale that tracks the rotation of its constituent ages. Cleverly utilizing the ample space within the large case, the movement is equipped with a massive mainspring that provides an impressive 10-day power reserve.

The Cortina Anniversary Tourbillon is the perfect complement to a luxury timepiece of this class, featuring the largest Vanguard case size of 46mm x 55.9mm and a height of 13.7mm, providing ample room for the 225 baguette-cut stones on the case.

Vanguard evolved from the brand's iconic tonneau-shaped case, eliminating the lugs and instead integrating the strap into the case. Another key feature of the case design is the anodized aluminum insert on the side of the case.

The FM 2030 SMR-VS movement features a three-axis tourbillon at six o'clock. Its innermost cage makes one revolution every minute, the middle cage makes one revolution every eight minutes, and the outermost cage takes 60 minutes to make one revolution.

Accompanying the rotating cage are a pair of retrograde minute indicators flanking the tourbillon. The display at four o'clock is attached to the center shaft and tracks its eight-minute rotation, while the display at eight o'clock does the same for the 60-minute cage.

Thanks to the massive mainspring located at 12 o'clock that takes up almost half the volume of the movement, the Vanguard Revolution 3 shows a 10-day power reserve on the display above the mainspring.

Three of the five unique Vanguard tourbillons are set with diamonds, but are distinguished by the colored finish of the movement. However, the remaining two are perhaps more striking as they are completely covered in colored gemstones. One is set with a baguette-cut emerald and the other is set with a baguette-cut ruby.

The diamond-encrusted anniversary tourbillon is at the center of the Franck Muller Cortina Watch Golden Jubilee exhibition, which is being held at Paragon Shopping Center on Orchard Road. The exhibition, which focuses on jewelry and complicated timepieces, runs from September 1 to 13 and is open to the public daily from 11am to 8pm.

Franck Muller Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary

Diameter: 46mm x 55.9mm
Height: 13.7 mm
Material: 18k White Gold Set with Baguette-Cut Stones (Diamonds, Emeralds or Rubies)
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 meters

Movement: FM 2030 SMR-VS
Features: hours, minutes, retrograde minutes on two scales, power reserve indicator and three-axis tourbillon
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour (3 Hz) Winding: Manual
wind up
Power reserve: 10 days

Strap: Alligator-covered rubber strap with diamond-set pin buckle